Well, this will be a first and very carefully monitored by Paul, who together with Louise, is enjoying a wet, good and well deserved holiday in UK! It’s therefore my turn to let the outside world know what has happened around Ndutu. It is the strangest feeling to be sitting around the camp-fire in front of the Lodge in the evening with a large part of the world in turmoil after the horrific events in America! We did not have many cancellations, despite these sad happenings and are so lucky to live here, far removed from these world-threatening incidents!
Well into the Dry Season, guests have enjoyed good sightings of all six species of cats and several encounters with striped hyena! Another “special” was a huge python, which had obviously caught something and resided in a small area for several days, basking in the early morning sun, its beautifully marked body encircling the base of a tree .
One young spotted hyena has decided to use Ndutu as a base! It sleeps next to the garage every night and at dusk wanders around the lodge, often coming very close to the bar area and the fireplace. I have encountered it several times too, while on my exercise rounds late afternoon. At first we were alarmed it might be sick, but after three weeks here maybe it just likes the area! Nevertheless, our night watchmen keep a close eye, when they do their rounds, just in case!
Truly, this September month could be named the month of wings and feathers! There are feathers everywhere… first of all meet Mr and Mrs martial eagle!! Martial eagles are large crested eagles with long, broad wings and a short tail. Clever and capable, they are formidable hunters and their prey ranges from large birds to small- sized mammals! Well, the couple has decided to take up residence in a large Acacia near the lodge and are enjoying a feast of easy pickings!!!
Thousands of doves visit the little water-hole in front of the lodge daily, but especially during early morning and late afternoons; flocks of beautifully coloured fischer’s lovebirds festoon the trees as well and below the helmeted guinea-fowl till the soil by scraping in search of insects. The entire spectacle is observed from above by different raptors, and when the eagles attack in a blitz swoop, there are alarm shrieks and birds escaping in every direction, often seeking refuge under the guest-verandahs! The many “feather-spots” are silent witnesses of some very successful birds of prey!
Further away, the queleas are still residing near the Big Marsh. Although their numbers have dwindled a bit since August, they still pose an amazing sight when late morning they return to drink at the Marsh and move around in great brown clouds! And of course, all kinds of small birds visit the birdbath in front of the Lodge at the moment, allowing keen ‘birders’ to capture these on film or add to their birdlist numbers!
There have been unusually early and scattered rainshowers resulting in a mosaic of greens and browns on the surrounding plains and woodland of Ndutu. Early in the month, a bushfire from the east lit up the night sky for over a week and in order to save the woodland around Lake Masek we went out several days running to either backburn or directly put out the flames in nearby areas… With the lorry loaded with drums of water and staff armed with gunnybags we managed to control the fire eventually!
It rained soon after and already new green grass shoots are coming up, and small herds of impala and dikdiks are feasting on the fresh food in the area.
Very significantly, the magnificent scadoxus multiflorus lily, more popularly called “fire ball” lily, has started to appear everywhere. As these beautiful lilies always flower at the onset of the early rains, we hope the RainGods continue to smile on Ndutu! If it is up to the pair of toads, that presently live in our herb garden next to the kitchen, their constant croaking surely is a sign of rain to come!!
A few days ago, two Maasai friends arrived, having walked from the Gol Mountains, a range of high hills to the east of Ndutu. To come here they needed to cross a 40 km wide short-grass plain and another 10 km of woodland. Just a few km from Ndutu they were lucky to stumble upon one of our cars and staff working on the road into the Lodge. One of them had a badly swollen foot as they had to run for their lives when they encountered an elephant just inside the woodland border and had to climb a tree!!! Having left their home at two o’clock in the morning, they were very tired when they arrived and so grateful for a chance to shower and food and water. Sometime ago, they had announced that they would come to Ndutu as they were very keen to watch wildlife videos!!!! And so for two days these two Maasai, clad in their red shukas, sat in the video room by themselves and looked at scenes of the Serengeti. I know where their home is and it is a stunningly beautiful out there. More beautiful than any wildlife film or video could ever show!
Where cultures cross paths and a world in turmoil, life in Serengeti follows its natural course. With the rains about to arrive, the dry and dormant earth will soon once again transform the short-grass plains and woodlands of Ndutu and welcome the vast herds from the north!
Ndutu Safari Lodge.
