Returning from leave last month, we were pleasantly surprised to find so many wildebeest still on the triangle. The plains still had a green tinge after the late rains in May. The wildebeest had started to rut, which only made the spectacle even more memorable. The males ran to and fro, challenging rivals while constantly calling and trying to herd groups of females together. The males would confront each other, clash horns with a surprising amount of force and promptly return to their little group of females, if they had not already moved off onto another males territory. To the outsider it looks like total chaos but to wildebeest it must make some sort of sense. Nevertheless it really is a truly great event in the Serengeti migration and one we don’t generally see at Ndutu as the herds have usually moved off before the rut starts. But thanks to late rains we’ve been treated to yet another of Serengeti’s natural wonders. It proves yet again that every year, every month and every day is different and nothing can be taken for granted, only the knowledge that in this truly great wilderness, something is always going to be special.
The main groups are moving fast towards the Seronera area although some wildebeest are still entering the Marsh for water. The young calves have now turned grey and have grown considerably over the past two months in preparation for the trek ahead in the search for water and fresh pasture. The resident lions are fat and well. They kindly paid us a visit the other evening, coming so close we had to abandon our drinks by the campfire. As they investigated the chairs in which we sat, I thought they might have taken the odd gin and tonic or beer before they went. But alas they just sat there for 20 minutes preventing us from reclaiming them, even though some of the guests looked as though they needed a gin!
The Karatu Secondary School left this morning after another Ndutu visit. We invite the school to stay for two nights every year and they have been coming to Ndutu for well over ten years now. The school is about three and a half hours drive from the lodge in the small town of Karatu. It was the first time many of the children had seen wild animals which is sad when they live so close to one of the greatest wildlife parks in the world (Ngorongoro). We’re pleased to be able to help the school and hope the arrangement will continue for many more years to come.
The elephant known as DT, has been very much in evidence this month. For some reason he’s taken to hanging around the lodge, which is great for the guests and wonderful to see, but – there’s a problem with his eating habits. We like having trees for aesthetic reasons and also for shade, he likes to eat them, so a conflict of interests has arisen. The time of clapping one’s hands or banging saucepans is long over, as he’s become accustomed to the noise. Even my guitar playing fails to persuade him to leave. Quite a bit of the surrounding foliage is now supported by bits of string. I haven’t seen DT for over a week, so we’re hoping it’s just a passing phase and hopefully he’ll do what elephants do best in the bush and not between the guest rooms.
DT and the Aardwarks mentioned in the last newsletter
Some other interesting sightings this past week have been a pair of striped hyenas seen several times at Lake Masek. Caracals are still being seen regularly and of special note has been plum coloured starlings and violet tipped courser which were seen at the lodge.
On Friday the 7th of June, the funeral of Baron Hugo Van Lawick, took place in his old campsite at Ndutu. Hugo Van Lawick was a filmmaker and photographer, who lived at Ndutu for over twenty five years, first at the lodge and then in his camp a few kilometres away.
Hugo was one of the first filmmakers to work in Serengeti/Ngorongoro and through his films the world was introduced to the delights of these wonderful places. Hugo trained many of the young filmmakers of today and was an inspiration to many more and his presence will live on in wildlife films for many more years to come. His last film ‘The Serengeti Symphony’ which was filmed in 35mm for the big screen is possibly the finest wildlife film ever made in the Serengeti and sets the standard for todays filmmakers.
Hugo did so much to promote Serengeti/Ngorongoro and Tanzania that he was given a state funeral and the honour of being laid to rest in the place he had loved and lived in for much of his life. Government ministers, the Dutch ambassador, officials for Ngorongoro Conservation Area Authority, National Parks and friends from around the world came to pay their last respects. The name Hugo Van Lawick has become synonymous with Ndutu. Hugo was a great storyteller and raconteur, it was a great pleasure to have met him and he will be sadly missed, few can have achieved as much in life or be remembered so fondly as Hugo Van Lawick.
June 2002,
Ndutu Safari Lodge.
